CULTURE AND TOURISM ON-LINE MAGAZINE
- FEBRUARY 2018 -
HOME - Puglia - Apulian Cooking - Fish soup - Taranto style
Apulian Cooking
Fish soup - Taranto style A traditional dish on Christmas Eve, it is made in several different ways up and down Italy.
The freshness of the fish and the speed of cooking are the essential elements
by Dario Ersetti
SHARE Facebook Twitter

Fish soup – Taranto style. Photo by Dario Ersetti

On Christmas Eve, people used to eat sparingly, in accordance with the precepts of religion and tradition. A popular dish was fish soup.

Almost certainly no other dish has so many variants as fish soup. Even the name itself changes. “Broth” from Trieste to Termoli, then it becomes “soup” and the recipes get simpler and simpler and less codified, until the freshness of the fish becomes the main ingredient to consider.

Another characteristic of this dish is the place where it is cooked. Starting from the North, at Marano Lagunare we find a soup of gudgeon tongues, Venetian-fashion, that used to be served up in the nobles’ palazzi, with the rest of the fish being given to the plebs. The boreto alla graisana, with eel or brill, that was made strictly by men in the fishing huts on the lagoon in Grado, was enjoyed also in the noble houses in Venice but here was known as the sumptuous brodeto alla venexiana, in which you can breathe all the culture of the Serenissima.

Further south, where the olive oil territory begins, the broths and then the soups were cooked on board the trawlers, using the fish that slipped, worse the wear, from the nets and for this reason couldn’t be offered for sale. The first recipes were just with the fish cooked in sea water with whole onions, chilli pepper and garlic and then poured into slices of bread, and then fresh tomatoes began to be added, and then gradually the recipes got more diversified and more articulated, while keeping the two traditional features of the freshness of the fish and the speed of its cooking.

As well as fish, a mix of molluscs and seafood that varies depending on the season and what is available, there is always parsley; in the North only garlic but going south also onion (with or without garlic). From Vasto to Termoli an indispensable ingredient is red or green peppers, together with garlic and basil.

These broths are cooked in a shallow earthenware pot with its lid on and shouldn’t be stirred, just moved around a little with a rotation of the pot itself, and are served by taking off the lid in front of the diners so that they first enjoy the wonderful smell of the dish.

An interesting idea from Brindisi is that of sprinkling shredded parsley and crushed garlic raw on the soup.

Crossing over to the Tyrrhenian coast, we make a mention only of the Ligurian ciuppin, which takes us directly to San Francisco, where Giuseppe Bazzurro, a Genoan fisherman, turned an abandoned boat into the first Italian restaurant and began serving this soup in 1850. He was imitated at once by the other Genoan fishermen who, like him, had emigrated to San Francisco’s North Beach, and the dish was so successful that these days ciuppin has become the city’s signature dish.

We have chosen the Taranto style fish soup because, apart from being a compendium of Apulian soups, it’s the one that seems most elegantly presented. And above all, it’s exquisite!

 

 

The recipe

 

   Ingredients:

 

- seafood (mussels, clams, sea truffles etc.)

- slices of grouper, scorpion fish, etc.

- prawns and cuttlefish

- plum tomatoes

- parsley

- olive oil

- garlic

- salt

- pepper

- some slices of Altamura bread

 

Place the pieces of cut fish with the whole (small) cuttlefish and the prawns in an earthenware pot; add the oil, a little water, strips of tomatoes, parsley, pepper and garlic and cook, tasting occasionally in case you need more salt.

In another pot place the seafood (well washed and brushed) and cook them to open them in the same base of oil, parsley, pepper and strips of tomato, with salt to taste.

Serve the fish with their sauce in dishes and then place the seafood on top with theirs. Complete with slices of fried bread.

Related articles
MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Fish A precious part of healthy eating
More articles
Apulian Cooking   Flour gnocchi with scrum Apulian Cooking   The scapece of Gallipoli Apulian Cooking   Cupeta An irresistibile delicacy Apulian Cooking   Simulata with mussels Apulian Cooking   Sardine fishballs Apulian Cooking   “Fruttone”, the other face of the pasticciotto Apulian Cooking   Potato and zucchini soup Apulian Cooking   Oven-baked pasta with eggplant and tomatoes Apulian Cooking   Filled wafers Apulian Cooking   Cuttlefish with artichokes and potatoes Apulian Cooking   Pisieddhri a cecamariti (Peas cecamariti-style) or Pisieddhri cu li muersi (Peas with fried bread) Apulian Cooking   Puccia, pizzi and other delicacies Apulian Cooking   Troccoli with octopus sauce MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Octopus Few calories, good proteins Apulian Cooking   Cherry pistofatru MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Cherries, a miracle of goodness Apulian Cooking   Apostles’ fingers MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Ricotta Tasty, nutritious and light Apulian Cooking   Soup of cicerchie “alla pizzaiola” MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Cicerchia In pursuit of old-time flavors Apulian Cooking   Marzipan fruit Apulian Cooking   Troccoli with walnut sauce MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Walnuts Topping up on antioxidants Apulian Cooking   Spaghetti with clams and samphire MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Clams Low in calories, high in vitamins and minerals Apulian Cooking   Lecce’s “rustico” Apulian Cooking   Pot of spring vegetables MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Potatoes Apulian Cooking   Scarcella …one of the Easter delicacies MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Eggs, an extraordinary food Apulian Cooking   Marzotica …a taste of spring MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Marzotica ricotta For a calcium hit Apulian Cooking   Maritati with fresh breadcrumbs MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Anchovies A “poor fish” rich in goodness Apulian Cooking   Lentils with lampascioni (grape hyacinths bulbs) MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Lampascioni (Grape hyacinth bulbs) The viagra of the Ancients Apulian Cooking   Cakes An alternative to panettone and purceddhruzzi Apulian Cooking   Pasta with black chick peas from the Foggia Murge Apulian Cooking   “Olive leaves” Pasta with olives MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Olives, good and healthy Apulian Cooking   Green peppers with mussels MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Garlic A natural antibiotic Apulian Cooking   Spumone MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Everything you need to know about ice-cream Apulian Cooking   Apulian calzone Apulian Cooking   Foglie mischiate (mixed leaves) MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Wild herbs, precious for health Apulian Cooking   Baccalà with spunzali MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Onions, a concentration of beneficial properties Apulian Cooking   Artichoke parmigiana MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Artichokes …so tasty and precious for our health Apulian Cooking   Purceddhruzzi and carteddhrate to sweeten your Christmas MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Honey A prodigious food Apulian Cooking   Apulian focaccia MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Eulogy to carbohydrates Apulian Cooking   Red mullet with tomatoes MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Fish Protein of high biological quality Apulian Cooking   Poor Man’s style zucchini MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Zucchini An ideal summer food for the table Apulian Cooking   Stuffed pepper rolls MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Peppers Super-concentrated
with vitamin C
Apulian Cooking   Pea soup MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Fresh peas Lots of vitamins and the taste of Spring Apulian Cooking   Almond paste Easter lambs MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Almonds So good …and precious for health and beauty Apulian Cooking   St. Joseph’s zeppole MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Sweets How to stay in shape without feeling deprived Apulian Cooking   Tubettini pasta with mussels MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Mussels 
For a full serving of minerals
 Apulian Cooking   Ciceri e tria (pasta and chickpeas) MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Chickpeas Precious for good health and very tasty too Apulian Cooking   Pittule MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Extra virgin olive oil elixir of health and beauty Apulian Cooking   Leccese Quince MEDITERRANEAN DIET   The innumerable qualities of quince Apulian Cooking   Lecce’s eggplant parmigiana MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Eggplant, depurative and very tasty Apulian Cooking   Burnt grain MEDITERRANEAN DIET   The tomato king of good health and beauty Apulian Cooking   Pasticciotto, a delight from Salento MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Pasticciotto Apulian Cooking   Purée of fresh fava beans with chicory from Galatina MEDITERRANEAN DIET   Fresh fava beans Chock full of energy and beauty Apulian Cooking   Orecchiette with broccoli rabe MEDITERRANEAN DIET   What makes them good for you…