CULTURE AND TOURISM ON-LINE MAGAZINE

- NOVEMBER 2017 -
HOME - Puglia - Art - Otranto The mosaic of secrets
Art
Otranto
The mosaic of secrets
About a century old, the precious pavement in Otranto cathedral has symbols, animals and words whose meaning has never been deciphered. From Dan Brown’s to Eco’s novels, a challenge that still fascinates scholars. by Pietro Marino
SHARE Facebook Twitter

Otranto. Inside the Cathedral with its precious
mosaic floor.
Photo by Giuseppe and Pierluigi Bolognini, from "Il mosaico
di Otranto, Biblioteca medioevale in immagini"
by Grazio Gianfreda, Edizioni Grifo

      A great mystery of art and faith has been kept for almost nine centuries in Otranto. This small town, at the tip of Salento, is famous in  Mediterranean history for being besieged, conquered and sacked in 1480 by the Turks who attempted to build an Ottoman bridgehead on Christian Land. The last 800 men who withstood the attack were decapitated. The Otranto’s Martyrs’ skulls are stored in glass shrines by a side altar of the cathedral.  Muslims demolished its facade but they didn’t dare to destroy the inside, with its most precious treasure: a monumental mosaic covering the entire floor of the cathedral like a lavishly decorated carpet of colorful stones. It stretches for 16 meters, from the entrance to the altar. Crafted between 1163 and 1165, it is the largest in Europe, almost intact, resilient to the damage and wearing effect of time.
       Thus, under a visitor’s feet a fabulous, old time cartoon is shown.  A spectacular encyclopedia that in the central nave revolves around the Tree of Life, a very long trunk with several rows of parallel branches.  Two minor trunks run throughout the aisles.  Among the ‘vegetable spaces’ biblical stories are depicted: Adam and Eve driven out of Eden, the building of Noah’s Ark, Cain and Abel, the Tower of Babel, Solomon and the Queen of Sheba…And hidden among them, central characters from medieval tales can be found unexpectedly: King Arthur and Alexander the Great, as well as pagan myths such as Samson, Diana and Atlas.  In a series of circles the twelve months of the year are depicted with their various seasonally-related working activities, in other words earthly everyday life.  Elsewhere life in the Next World is evoked in Heaven and Hell.  Some sixteen medallions hold the whole medieval bestiary with its ambiguous symbolism, while domestic, ferocious, exotic animals and bizarre creatures run around like in a fantasy free zoo. Along the path queries grow. Why are the Tree of Life’s roots not sunk in the ground but rested on two elephants, a male and a female? Where does the cat in boots come from? What does a bearded centaur do with a chessboard on his head? What’s the meaning of the writing PASCA next to a winged griffin?
       Among many obscure meanings that divide scholars, the overall message is hard to understand. The creator – the mosaic’s director- was a monk named Pantaleone, while Gionata was the Bishop who commissioned it.   Who was  Pantaleone really?  He maybe lived close to Casole monastery, a prestigious center of study and prayer during the Middle Ages: a bridge between the Mediterranean's Eastern and the Northern Europe’s Western cultures.  Veritably, the pavement is a pictorial document of a hodgepodge of learning and tradition occurring in multifarious cultures, during the time when Byzantines and Normans chalenged each other.  Perhaps a valid suggestion that does not explain, though, what Arnold Willemsen, a great German scholar, has called “the enigma of Otranto”.  In medieval churches visual decoration (frescoes, mosaics, icons, scrolls) served the dual purpose of proselytizing and educating the worshippers.  The mosaic tells with folkloristic vividness about the main Christian preaching on the world’s origin, the battle between Good and Evil, virtues and vices that have been marking the human condition and its spiritual outcome.  However there are other hidden meanings, religious, moral and political in nature.  Lately, the esoteric trend brought up by novelists such as Umberto Eco and Dan Brown, as well as by movies and TV shows, has fostered obscure interpretations: the Holy Grail, Kabbalah, the heresy of Gnostics…
       Compelling stories that risk, though, taking over the real emotion.  A direct and personal experience that no 3-D Avatar style movie can beat, because it is mind and eyes engaging, it excites memories, imagination and knowledge.  Like an Ipad or an Xbox emerging from the darkness of the Year One thousand.

 

 

WHERE: Otranto (Lecce)

Google maps